Building Tips • Hardware • Fasteners • End Cuts • Handling & Safety • Maintenance • Painting & Staining
Wolmanized EraWood® is intended for out-of-ground use only and such use must not present ground-contact type hazards.. It is ideal for decking, railings, risers, fence pickets, exterior jambs, molding, and millwork or trim that may or may not be painted.
For in-ground needs or for above ground needs with ground contact type hazards, use Wolmanized® Outdoor® Wood that is stamped or tagged for ground contact.
SDSs for Treated Wood Products
Before You Start
• Check your local building code requirements and get a permit if required. For additional industry guidance, see www.awc.org/publications/download.php.
• Make sure that your wood is suited for the intended use. Check the tag on lumber for “Above Ground” or “Ground Contact.”z
• Separate deck boards to allow for expansion and contraction. If heavy and wet, separate boards no more than 1/16” as some shrinkage will occur. If light and dry, separate boards about 1/8”-1/4” to allow for swelling.
• Shorter spans between joists will help to minimize warping and twisting of deck boards as they dry.
• Avoid designs with long cantilevers unsecured at one end; check with your local building department on maximum cantilever permitted.
• Lumber wider than six inches should not be used as a flat surface. Wide, flat boards are subject to ponding of rain water, which can lead to cupping problems.
• Place boards bark side up to help shed water. They will also be more likely to have treated sapwood on the exposed face.
• If a board is bowed, install it with the crown up. Gravity and the weight of people and furniture will flatten it.
• If a board has a slight bend, it sometimes can be straightened as it is nailed in place.
• Make sure there is good under-deck ventilation for Above-Ground treated wood, allowing airflow around the entire deck.
• All material treated for Above Ground use must be off the ground where it can dry easily and be free of leaves or other debris. If not, use wood treated to Ground Contact.
• All joists and beams must be treated to Ground Contact retentions or higher.
• Proper flashing or spacers should be used between all adjacent structures and the deck.
Though Wolmanized EraWood® is no more corrosive than untreated wood, code requirements are the same as for any treated wood: fasteners should be hot dipped galvanized steel meeting ASTM A153. Aluminum can also be used in direct contact with this wood. Check with your hardware manufacturer regarding specific uses.
• Use 3 1/2” long nails on nominal two-inch decking and 3” nails for 5/4” decking. Use two nails across a 2 x 4 and three across a 2 x 6. Drive nails at a slight angle toward each other.
• To reduce splitting when using nails, especially near the ends of boards, drill a pilot hole about three quarters the diameter of the nail. For dense or brittle wood, grind sharpness from nails or blunt the points by striking them carefully with a hammer.
•Screws take longer to drive than nails, but hold boards more securely and will allow for easier removal if necessary.
Hot-dipped galvanized fasteners (meeting ASTM A153) and connectors (ASTM A653 Class G185 sheet), or better, are recommended. For Permanent Wood Foundations and corrosive environments, such as coastal areas near saltwater, use 304 or 316 stainless steel. Fasteners not meeting or exceeding these requirements could result in premature failures and degradation of fasteners and treated wood.
Aluminum flashing (3015 or similar alloy) may be used in contact with micronized copper azole treated wood in interior or exterior, above ground applications that are damp or intermittently wet. For dissolved copper azole preservative or whenever treated wood is subject to immersion or frequent or prolonged wetting, factory coated aluminum or an insulating moisture-resistant barrier should be used between the treated wood and the aluminum. See the end tag for type of treatment (CA-B and CA-C indicate dissolved copper azole and MCA-B and MCA-C indicate micronized copper azole).
• Liberally coat all cut ends, holes, or other intrusions into the wood with a suitable wood preservative product containing a minimum of 0.675% copper as oxine copper (copper-8 or copper-8-quinolinolate) or 1% copper as copper naphthenate. (One such product is Outlast® Q8 Log Oil. See www.chemtch.com for information and to order).
• Orient supporting posts so that original factory treated ends are in contact with the ground. Trim the top ends as needed, apply end coat solution, and cover them with post caps or cut them at angles to shed water and treat with a brush-on preservative (see above).
Handling & Safety
The following precautions should be taken both when handling the preserved wood and in determining where to use and dispose of it. Many of these precautions also apply to untreated wood and other building materials.
Use Site Precautions
All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned up and disposed of after construction.
Do not use treated wood under circumstances where the preservative may become a component of food or animal feed. Examples are mulch from recycled treated wood, cutting boards, counter tops, animal bedding, and structures or containers for storing animal feed or human food.
Do not use treated wood for construction of those portions of beehives which may come into contact with honey.
Treated wood should not be used where it may come into direct or indirect contact with drinking water, except for uses involving incidental contact such as docks or bridges.
•Dispose of treated wood by ordinary trash collection. TREATED WOOD SHOULD NOT BE BURNED in open fires or in stoves, fireplaces or residential boilers because toxic substances may be produced as part of the smoke and ashes. Treated wood from commercial or industrial use (e.g., construction sites) may be disposed of by complying with local landfill rules or burned in commercial or industrial incinerators or boilers when done in accordance with state and federal regulations.
•Avoid frequent or prolonged inhalation of sawdust from wood, treated or untreated. When sawing, sanding, and machining wood, wear a dust mask. Whenever possible, these operations should be performed outdoors to avoid indoor accumulations or airborne sawdust.
•When power-sawing and machining, wear goggles to protect eyes from flying particles.
•Wear gloves when working with wood. Use proper techniques when lifting. After working with wood, and before eating, drinking, toileting, and use of tobacco products, wash exposed areas thoroughly.
•Because preservatives or sawdust may accumulate on clothes, they should be laundered before reuse. Wash work clothes separately from other household clothing.
•No maintenance is needed to renew resistance to fungi and termites. Wolmanized® wood has a limited warranty against these organisms. However, protection is required to maintain the wood’s appearance against weather. Sun and rain cycles cause stresses in lumber and result in swelling, shrinking, warping, and cracking.
•To revitalize a dingy appearance caused by dirt and mildew, use deck brightener to clean the wood.
•To help protect your project against moisture damage, apply a water repellent as soon as your project is finished or, for large projects, as sections are completed. Water repellent should be applied every year or two.
•To ensure the best performance of your project, liberally coat all cut ends, holes or other intrusions into the wood with a suitable wood preservative product from your home center or lumberyard. Suitable wood preservatives contain a minimum of 0.675% copper as oxine copper (copper-8 or copper-8-quinolinolate) or 1% copper as copper naphthenate. Application of such preservatives is required for coverage under our limited warranty. Outlast® Q8 Log Oil is a product that meets these requirements (website).
Painting & Staining
You can stain or paint Wolmanized® wood. You can also coat this wood with a water repellent; in fact, we highly recommend it to help maintain the appearance of the wood. With any paint, stain or water repellent coating, always follow the manufacturer’s directions on the product can and take special care in sealing end grain, holes, and other penetrations in the wood.
Typical Treated Wood
When wood is pressure-treated, it is saturated with a liquid solution of preservative diluted in water. In a typical situation, the wood you buy is still very wet.
Paint and Solid Color Stains: Do not apply until the wood is dry, both on the surface and internally. Otherwise, as the wood dries out, escaping moisture will cause blisters and poor adhesion in the paint. We recommend a six month waiting period before applying paint. Once the wood is dry, the procedure for painting treated wood is no different from that for painting untreated wood. Application of a primer is suggested for best results. (We do not recommend using paint or solid color stains on deck flooring because frequently used pathways, such as from the steps to the door, will become worn.)
Semi-Transparent Stains: Semi-transparent stains do not block moisture movement like paint and solid color stains, so they can be used after the wood has dried long enough to ensure that they will be absorbed evenly into the surface. If you are unsure whether the wood is dry enough, test an inconspicuous area to make sure that application does not result in uneven color or blotchiness.
Water Repellent: Most water repellent brands say that it is okay to apply a water repellent without delay, which is ideal timing. For other brands, a slight delay is recommended. Again, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Treated Wood with Built-in Water Repellent
To help protect against moisture damage, some Wolmanized® EraWood® lumber has built-in water repellent as well as preservative. The water repellent slows down the rate at which the wood absorbs moisture.
Paints and Stains: The recommendation for allowing wood to dry is similar to typical treated wood, but it may take slightly longer for the wood to dry. When the wood is dry, oil based paints and stains may be applied immediately. You may have to wait six to twelve months for the surface of the wood to weather to allow a water-based coating to penetrate evenly and adhere to the wood. If water readily beads on the surface, it is too soon to apply a water-based coating. Always test the coating the most shaded part of the deck to make sure it absorbs evenly without blotching.
Water Repellent: With water repellent treated wood, an initial coating of topical water repellent is not as critical for the first year, although it provides some additional surface protection. It is recommended to apply a water repellent or combination water repellent and stain coating every year or two thereafter depending on the product used. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Treated Wood that Is Re-dried after Treatment
In some areas you can buy treated wood that is Kiln Dried After Treatment (KDAT) or Air Dried After Treatment (ADAT). In these processes, moisture is removed from the wood before shipment to a lumber dealer. KDAT or ADAT will be marked on each piece of wood on either the end tag or an ink stamp.
Paint, Stain and Water Repellent: The moisture content of the wood is already in balance with atmospheric moisture levels, so coating can proceed immediately, unless wood has built-in water repellent (then see above).